“ Kheti?” (farming?) a local woman asks me with contorted eyebrows, hinting that my question wasn’t just unwelcome, but also ignorant of the obvious. Much has changed in the mountains in the last few years. Kamedi, my quaint little hamlet in Pauri, Uttarakhand that was once so cold that we were required to wear a sweater when we visited it, was now bristling with searing heat. “ Khani barkha...
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